The taste of the Himalayas can be found in Kamppi.
HAVING thoroughly washed my hands beforehand in case I would be invited to taste their cuisine in the traditional hands-on Nepalese manner, I enter Satkar Restaurant not knowing what to expect. I soon realise, however, that a four-legged-occidental table is waiting for me, and so are others just like it to house up to 140 customers. I feel both foolish and relieved to discover the usual utensils of a knife and fork within arms reach.
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Looking around me, I am enveloped by the Nepalese decor and while admiring a large and prominent painting of the Himalaya Mountains, Ram Prasad Aryal, owner of Satkar for the last 16 years, welcomes me warmly and invites me to sit down. Offering a crispy papadam, the subtle cumin flavour peeking through is accompanied by a refreshing mango juice, its taste evoking a warmer climate, far removed from the rainy, cold and dark Finnish day outside.
Despite my low tolerance for spiciness, I am fully prepared and willing to experience and savour the overwhelming seasoning of Nepalese cuisine. After all, juice, water and tandoori-baked naan are all on hand to soften the fiery blow if the need arises.
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Satkar |
A traditional banquet
A generous portion of unseasoned basmati rice sits before me, accompanied by lentil soup (daal), yoghurt sauce (raita) and chilli-ginger-pickle chutney served together on traditional metal plates, called thals. These are the standard accompaniments to every meal served here. Lamb Masala (€15.90), with lamb pieces and hot spicy sauce is the first main dish I try. Although it is considerably spicy, I am surprised to simultaneously enjoy its fresh ginger and chilli flavour that is decidedly moreish.
The second course of Kukhurako Korma (€14.90) offers small pieces of chicken cooked in cream and tomato sauce. I cannot be sure if my mouth is already numb because of the first dish, or the chicken does not contain any hot spices in it, but there is no noticeable increase of heat. My favourite, however, comes in the shape of Saag Paneer (€13.90), composed of homemade cottage cheese with spinach sauce – a non-spicy dish that I enjoy to the last spoonful.
Just when I think I cannot fit another thing in, a dessert of deep fried cheese balls makes its entrance. Since there is always room for dessert, I do not hesitate to try this unusual sweet treat bathed in what appears to be almond sauce. Rum flamed banana (€3.90) and vanilla ice cream with honey and whipped cream closes the feast.
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Nepalese tea |
Time to chai
I sit with Aryal’s cousin, and Satkar employee, Keshab Bhandari for a moment after my meal. A cup of delicious Nepalese tea (€3.50) is served. The strong ginger and cardamom aroma is intoxicating. Awaking both my curiosity and my motivation to try it at home, I politely ask Bhandari for the recipe.
Chatting for a while, he explains that the word satkar translates as honour, respect and hospitable service. These are words that could describe this Nepalese haven. Having arrived in Finland 25 years ago, his cousin decided to open his own restaurant in 1998. Realising that Finns are already used to Nepalese cuisine, Aryal wanted to offer his own taste of his national dishes. Today, an average of 300 happy customers frequent his establishment every day, with the a la carte menu changing every six months.
Given the importance of the tandoor oven to the Nepalese kitchen, it comes as no small surprise that Bhandari points out that one can also be found in Satkar. Contrary to my expectations, I was surprised to learn it is a modern and electric tandoor oven ordered from London, in which temperature could be regulated up to 500°C.
“It is not easy to use because you have to keep an eye on it at all times,” Aryal’s cousin and fellow worker Bhandari explains. “That is why we always have a chef who concentrates solely on the use of the tandoor.”
Their Nepalese oven may have had to be mail-ordered, but surprisingly enough, the necessary herbs and spices integral to the cuisine can all be found at a small Nepalese market at Hakaniemi Square. “There are several Asian markets in Helsinki,” Bhandari explains. “We find everything we need there.”
The spiciness level at Satkar, however, has been adapted for the Finnish palate, with the Nepalese tolerance for strong seasoning very different to that of a Finn. It is no small surprise that the amount of green chilli in their dishes is drastically reduced. “I always give our customers the choice between Finnish spicy or Nepali spicy,” Bhandari says, smiling. “Because Finnish extra spicy represents Nepali’s medium level.”
I have some way to go before I order Nepali spicy, it seems.
VALÉRIE BRUN
HELSINKI TIMES
Image: THOMAS POOLE
