People fishing at the Vanhakaupunki rapids.

For the beauty of its scenery and outing opportunities the Vantaanjoki area must be one of Greater Helsinki’s best-kept secrets.

When Derek Stewart, 61, a Kiwi by birth but a Helsinki fixture since 1976, wants to feel free, breathe fresh air, and enjoy nature or simply contemplate life he puts on his walking shoes (Masai Barefoot Technology with rounded bottoms) and heads for one of his favourite walking routes: the track beside the river Vantaanjoki. The locals appreciate it, walking their dogs, Nordic walking, jogging, or cycling along it, and it’s a good place for kayaking. For those who do not live anywhere near the river, however, it might turn out to be a real oasis of wilderness, a break from the urban hustle and bustle.

For Derek the river setting is second to none in the centre of Helsinki, even better than the central park. It is flat and therefore not very tiring for walkers. Derek enjoys the opportunity to walk at his leisurely but steady pace, much like the river itself, except where it runs a little faster and gurgles with excitement down some gentle rapids. “I’m an old guy, and old guys often like walking for pleasure more than young guys,” Derek says when asked who he would recommend it to. “But I believe everyone can learn to enjoy nature.”

The Vanhakaupunki rapids in autumn.

Derek’s favourite sites

The mouth of Vantaanjoki at Vanhakaupunki (the oldest part of Helsinki) is probably the most spectacular place, especially at this time of year with all the recently melted water coming down and plunging over the rapids and waterfalls located there. Nearby are the Museum of Technology, a café, a rather large drinking establishment and a beautiful park to hang out, relax, go fishing or just pass the time.

Upwards from the mouth of the river you will find yourself amidst forest patches, and in many places the lack of human habitation within sight makes you wonder whether this actually is the Finnish capital. Another interesting stopping point much further up-river is Tuomarinkylä manor house, located on a hilltop surrounded by fields. There’s a good track – often on both sides of the river – right from the mouth of the river all the way to where Keravanjoki joins it and even a bit further. If you choose to take to the right at the confluence and follow Keravanjoki you will reach the Tikkurila railway station after a few kilometres.

An outdoors history lesson and more

The river scene is a historic one. Helsinki was first settled at the river mouth so as to power the mills with the water. For a weekend historian walking on the river it can be amazing to consider that the city never actually emerged in earnest along the river, as has been the case with so many of the city’s European counterparts. The river is not very wide at any point and thus its use for navigation may have been found limited. But at the said confluence you can easily imagine church boats of old mooring at the shore nearest to the Church of St. Lawrence, the oldest surviving building in Greater Helsinki.

But even with the historical sights, it will probably be the calm nature that wins you over. In many places you come quite close to dense habitation yet remain unaware of it. And if you prefer a shorter walk you can locate different bus and train connections in advance, not far from the river when you know where to look.

MIKA OKSANEN - HT
Paul Williams