Loiste dates from 1952, having opened in Helsinki’s Olympic year, and the decor is essentially untouched since then, although I’m fairly sure that the chairs have seen some new upholstery in the last half century. Dark wood abounds on the walls and original chandeliers and light-fittings add a definite sense of class and, presumably, nostalgia for anyone born in the middle of last century.

As a whole, Loiste is a big place and divided into several parts. As well as the main area, which also serves as the hotel’s breakfast restaurant, there is a sauna for hire with, naturally, a terrace and view over to Kallio (maximum 40 people in the summer – although fitting everyone into the sauna at once might offer an intimacy that even Finns would baulk at), a section available for hire known as Kaarre (popular with wedding parties and big businesses, seating up to 200 guests), seven meeting rooms for smaller groups and a small bar.

Another one of the venue’s drawcards is the presence of two children’s playrooms, which provide a boon for both diners with children and those who might otherwise end up sitting near them. The playrooms are next to – but separate from – the dining area, so parents can keep an eye on their offspring while hopefully avoiding some of the less pleasant extras that often accompany the presence of small humans, such as tantrums, shouting and uncivilised carrying-on. It is family friendly but not at the expense of other diners.